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    waves, swell, swell2 & wind waves. Oh my good!

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    • idefix37I
      idefix37 Sailor Moderator @jose_fley
      last edited by idefix37

      @jose_fley
      I see.... Both Weather Models ECMWF and GFS, and their respective Waves Models, used by Windy are global models which cover the planet. Their resolution is good but quite coarse for local forecasts in some areas (mainly because of the coarse bathymetric model embedded). I don’t know where is your navigation zone but at 500m the swell is much weaker if you are in shallow waters.

      As example today in France ECMWF gives this waves forecast in south of Britanny. The swell is well established and the Total Sea (Waves in Windy) is 2.8m near the coastline.

      0_1539430056370_49597682-A5F2-4C5E-B644-D27BA5B75886.jpeg

      If we consider at same time the forecast of a French Waves Model with a higher resolution and probably a better mapping of the seabed, we have just more than 1m (1mt) at the same place.

      0_1539430681242_6A2383F4-E40A-4763-A50B-C2B901A95990.jpeg

      For you it’s probably better to consider « Wind Waves ».
      « Waves » and « Swell » are overestimated if you sail at short distance of the coast in shallow waters.

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
      • J
        jose_fley
        last edited by

        Thanks for the explanation.
        just one question more:

        how many is for you "short distance of the coast."10 meters? 20 meters?,50, 100??

        idefix37I 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • idefix37I
          idefix37 Sailor Moderator @jose_fley
          last edited by idefix37

          @jose_fley
          I can’t say at which distance you get smaller waves. It depends on the seabed profile.

          0_1539507683414_5CA0E888-D09A-49B6-8B5F-973EB302E19B.jpeg

          You see that high waves (green) become smaller (blue) from 20, 10m, and much more from 5m (light blue). On top of the map, the 20m sounding line are at 1.96NM (nautical miles) or 3.6km.
          On the right part of the map you see that these sounding lines are very close to the seashore and high waves too (green).

          Then, you must consider that the sea is tougher as the soundings decrease. Distance between wave crests is reduced, waves become sharper and start to break. So sailing close to the coastline may be dangerous.

          http://weather.mailasail.com/Franks-Weather/How-Waves-And-Swell-Form

          In which location do you navigate?

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
          • J
            jose_fley
            last edited by jose_fley

            In the north of Tenerife (Canary Island). Exactly in Garachico city.

            That picture is from Navionics, right?.
            Thanks

            idefix37I 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • idefix37I
              idefix37 Sailor Moderator @jose_fley
              last edited by

              @jose_fley
              Yes it’s a picture from Navionics map. Do you use them?

              0_1539546751076_8DDFC902-9674-4D0C-A02F-044B3529FA78.jpeg

              Along which part of the sea shore do you sail? We could have a look to the sea bottom.

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • J
                jose_fley
                last edited by jose_fley

                Navionics and Windy are my favorite apps.
                This week the sea weather is very very bad here
                My sail zone is around the green fish that you can see in the map,
                the exact coordinates of the little port from where i get out are; 28.378502, -16.813212

                0_1539555805826_G.jpg

                Gkikas LGPZG 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Gkikas LGPZG
                  Gkikas LGPZ Moderator @jose_fley
                  last edited by Gkikas LGPZ

                  @jose_fley
                  @idefix37
                  I want to point out:
                  a) the resolution of the wave model is 0.1 degree=6 NM = 11 km,
                  so we must not expect different wave height at 200, 300 or 500 m far from the coast.
                  Also https://community.windy.com/topic/4541/is-model-resolution-important
                  b) Jose's boat is only 3.3 m long.

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                  • J
                    jose_fley
                    last edited by

                    Thanks for your reply

                    Best regards

                    1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                    • SutyS Suty referenced this topic on
                    • idefix37I idefix37 referenced this topic on
                    • 矢澤旭泰矢
                      矢澤旭泰
                      last edited by

                      I would like to add a question: How is the direction of "waves" (as called "all wave types combined (swell and wind waves)" in the map forecast or waves_direction-surface in the point forecast API) technically calculated? I assume it somehow combines swell and wind waves, but how are the different directions of swell and wind waves averages to get the "total wave" direction? Thanks a lot for any explanation.

                      idefix37I 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • idefix37I
                        idefix37 Sailor Moderator @矢澤旭泰
                        last edited by idefix37

                        @矢澤旭泰
                        Wave model is based on spectrum analysis of waves and direction of total sea is deducted from it. See page 10.

                        https://confluence.ecmwf.int/download/attachments/59774192/wave_parameters.pdf

                        M 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                        • M
                          moritz.huetten @idefix37
                          last edited by

                          @idefix37 Thanks a lot for the response. How is it done for GFSwave (point forecast API) and ICON?

                          idefix37I 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • idefix37I
                            idefix37 Sailor Moderator @moritz.huetten
                            last edited by idefix37

                            @moritz-huetten
                            These wave models are also based on spectral analysis.
                            GFS wave.
                            https://gfs.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/GfsWave
                            ICON
                            The WAM model developed by DWD was the original model used and improved by ECMWF.
                            So it should be very similar:
                            https://www.dwd.de/DE/leistungen/opendata/help/modelle/legend_ICON_wave_EN_pdf.pdf?__blob=publicationFile&v=3

                            M 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • M
                              moritz.huetten @idefix37
                              last edited by

                              @idefix37 Thanks a lot for your response. By the way, how do you extrapolate the wave forecasts beyond the original forecast domain (e.g. GFS Wave), to obtain values close to the coast or even on land?

                              idefix37I 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • idefix37I
                                idefix37 Sailor Moderator @moritz.huetten
                                last edited by

                                @moritz-huetten
                                Do you refer to a precise location? A screenshot would be useful.

                                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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